Glossary

A - C
A

 

ABHYANGA

Abhyanga is the Sanskrit word for oil massage. In ayurveda, massage strokes and special medicated oils called taila are chosen to balance the client’s dosha constitution or promote detoxification.

ACAI

A Brazilian fruit that is high in nutrients and antioxidants that may be used in treatments to slow the signs of aging.

ACID MANTLE

The natural acidic mantle of the skin that helps prevent bacterial invasion.

ACID RINSE

A solution of water and lemon juice or vinegar.

ACTENIC KERATOSIS

Pre-cancerous growth that may occur because of repeated sun damage.

ADENOMA SEBACEUM

Small tumor of translucent appearance, originating in the sebaceous gland.

ALAKAI

A substance that is used to neutralize acids and is used in the soap making process.

ALPHA LIPOIC ACID (ALA)

An effective free-radical fighter that helps prevent further damage to the skin, thus aiding in the maintenance of precious collagen and elastin.

ALCOHOL

– Available in many forms, alcohol is a mild disinfectant when use in concentrations 90% or better and in lower concentrations can strip sebum from the skin making for an effective waxing service.

ALBUMIN

A form of protein that can be found in eggs.

ALCHEMILLA VULGARIS

Lady’s Mantle. Used to help heal the skin.

Archillea Millefolium

Yarrow. Used for its astringent properties and helps reduce inflammation.

ALLANTOIN

Promotes cellular turnover and helps smooth the skin, a natural derivative of the comfrey plant.

ALMOND OIL

Essential oil that is an effective emollient.

ALOE VERA

A naturally occurring plant with many medicinal properties. Aloe helps stimulate skin healing by aiding in the synthesis of collagen in the skin.

ALPHA HYDROXY ACID (AHA)

A group of acids that are characterized by their molecule size and penetrate the skin quickly. Available in both home regimens and professional peels, the most common AHA’s used in skin care include glycolic, lactic, citric, malic and tartaric.

ALUMINUM OXIDE

Commonly known as Corundum Crystal, this naturally occurring mineral is the second hardest known to man and is used in microdermabrasion machines to exfoliate the skin. This mineral is naturally drying and has bactericidal properties, which makes it beneficial for combination, oily or acneic skin.

AMINO ACIDS

Molecules that assist in metabolic functions of cells and are components of proteins. Common amino acids found in skin care include lysine, cysteine, glycine and tyrosine.

AMINOMETHYL PROPANEDIOL

A substance that is used to adjust pH levels in cosmetics and skin care products.

ASCORBIC ACID

Commonly known as Vitamin C, this acid is beneficial is supporting and stimulating collagen and elastin in the skin, thus improving skin elasticity.

ASCORBYL PALMITATE

A form of Ascorbic Acid that contains a fatty acid to aid in moisturizing the skin. Commonly called an ester.

ASPECT

– The form of the product (e.g. serum, lotion, cream, solid, etc.)

A VITAMIN

Also known as Retinyl Palmitate, this vitamin is beneficial in improving skin moisturization, reduces protein breakdown and aids in the exfoliation and regeneration process of the skin.

AVOBENZENE (PARSOL)

A sunscreen ingredient that protects from UVA and UVB rays.

AZELAIC ACID

A naturally occurring acid that helps fight harmful bacteria, aids in protecting and reversing cellular damage and lightens pigment.

AZULENE

A molecule that has been derived from Chamomile and is naturally blue. It is known to reduce inflammation and help soothe the skin.

B

 

 BETA HYDROXY ACID (BHA)

An organic compound that refers to Salicylic Acid. It is an oil-soluble acid that benefits oily skin, acne, psoriasis and hyperpigmentation. In peel form it lifts off superficial layers of dead skin and dries excess sebum. In topical product use, salicylic acid is used to help dry excess sebum from the skin surface and prevent congestion. Individuals that have an allergy to aspirin should not use BHA’s as aspirin is a form of BHA, but is not salicylic acid.

BENZOYL PEROXIDE

A drug that is used in acne treatments to dry and exfoliate the skin to prevent the spread of bacteria and recurring blemishes. Available from 2.5% to 10% in both prescription and OTC skin care products; this ingredient causes skin sensitivity to ultraviolet and environmental exposure.

BIOTIN

A Vitamin B complex that aids in cellular reproduction.

B VITAMINS

Thiamine (B1), riboflavin (B2), niacin (B3), pyridoxine (B6), pantothenic acid (B5), biotin (B7) and folic acid (B9) to name a few. Deficiencies in the varying B Vitamins can relate to certain skin conditions including acne or psoriasis.

C

 

 CAPRYLIC ACID

Commonly found in coconuts, this acid helps kill certain types of bacteria.

CITRIC ACID

A weak alpha hydroxy acid that is derived from citrus fruits and exfoliates dead skin and functions as an antioxidant.

C VITAMIN

Also known as Ascorbic Acid, this vitamin is beneficial is supporting and stimulating collagen and elastin in the skin, thus improving skin elasticity.

CASTOR OIL

A triglyceride that is derived from the castor bean. It has many industrial uses but in skin care it is commonly used in the manufacturing of soap and has been used in folk medicine to help heal the skin.

CYSTEINE

An amino acid that is used in skin care products that
Cucumis Sativus – Cucumber

CHAMOMILLA RECUTITA

Chamomile flower extract has antibacterial and anti-inflammatory properties.

CALENDULA OFFICINALIS

Commonly known as the marigold, it has anti-inflammatory properties.

COCOA BUTTER

A natural emollient that also has antioxidant properties.

CEDARWOOD

Natural antiseptic that is derived from cedar trees.

COLLAGEN

In the body, collagen fibers support cells and tissues, and can be found in the skin to give strength and support. As collagen deteriorates, wrinkles are formed on the skin. Synthetic collagen products, such as oligopeptides, can help stimulate collagen production and prevent further skin sagging.

CYCLOMETHICONE

A form of silicone.

CONTRAINDICATION

A term that is used to discourage a treatment because the outcome may be adverse.

D - F
D

 

D-BETA-FRUCTAN

Assists in skin moisture.

D-BETA-GLUCOSAMINE

Promotes skin strength by stimulating collagen production.

DMAE (DIMETHYLETHANOLAMINE)

Found naturally in fish, this ingredient helps to firm the skin and is best paired with alpha lipoic acid or L-ascorbic acid.

DIMETHICONE

Form of silicone.

D VITAMIN

Several forms of Vitamin D are required to maintain organ and bone system functions. Vitamin D3 specifically is manufactured at the basal layer of skin with the absorption of ultraviolet rays.

E

 

EFFLEURAGE

Firm or light soothing, stroking movement that doesn’t drag the skin; employed in massage, using either padded parts of fingertips or palms.

EMOLLIENT

A substance that softens the skin by slowing the evaporation of water.

EMULSION

A mixture of two or more liquids in which one is present as microscopic droplets distributed throughout the other.

ENZMATIC EXFOLIATION

Exfoliation that relies on biological action rather than physical abrasion. This type of exfoliation is applied to the skin and then rinsed off. The enzymes used dissolve keratin in the skin, thereby removing dead cells and supporting the natural process of exfoliation. Papain from papaya is an example of one of these enzymes.

ENZYME PEEL

A body exfoliation treatment that uses ingredients such as protein enzymes or alpha hydroxy acids (AHAs) that chemically dissolve dead skin cells without the surface abrasive action of other body exfoliation treatments. AHAs are naturally-occurring acids found in sugarcane and citrus fruit. Glycolic acid is the most popular of the AHAs because it has the smallest molecular structure. The enzyme peel is typically applied as a body mask and provides a period of relaxation for the client until the treatment is rubbed or washed off, depending on the product manufacturer’s instructions.

ESSENTIAL OIL

Distilled plant materials that are used in products to give aroma and carry the medicinal properties of the plant in concentrated form.

ESTHETICS

The application of various techniques to the epidermal layer of the human body. Application of esthetic techniques may include, but is not limited to, facial steaming, exfoliation, waxing, pore cleansing, extraction, and chemical peels. This may also include instructing the client in maintenance skin care and how to apply makeup skillfully to conceal scars and imperfections. The use of creams, lotions, wraps, clay or gel masks, etc., may also be included, as well as use of the electric pulverizer, spray machine or atomizer, brushing machine, galvanic current, microdermabrasion, and other device driven noninvasive cosmetic procedures. Esthetic practice specifically excludes diagnosis, prescription, or any other service, procedure, or therapy that requires a license to practice dermatology or any other profession or branch of medicine.

EXFOLIATION

Improving circulation while removing dead skin cells. Pressure used in the process can contribute to relaxation.

EXTRACTION

The process of removing sebum, bacteria, dead cells, and other waste from the skin follicle.

F

 

FACIAL

Deep cleansing of the face with steam. Facials may include exfoliation, extraction, or the application of creams, lotions, cleansers, masks, peels, and massage.

FACIAL VAPORIZER

Electric apparatus used to direct a lukewarm vapor mist to the face. Beneficial for softening dead surface cells, opening follicles, and loosening up deposits of dirt and grime, eliminating toxins, and increasing blood circulation.

FANGO TREATMENT

Administered as a bath or mud pack, using highly mineralized mud mixed with oil or water. In addition to aiding in detoxification, pain relief, and stimulation of circulation, the fango blend softens the skin and creates a soothing warmth. Additional natural ingredients, such as sea kelp and peat moss, may be added to increase warmth and mineral content.

FIXED OILS

Vegetable oils that are nonvolatile, such as sweet almond or sunflower. Also referred to as lipids or fats. They might be used as a lubricant in massage or as a carrier for essential oils.

FRAGRANCE

– An insignificant amount of essential oils that are used to give a pleasant aroma to a product.

G - I

G

 

GLYCOLIC ACID

– An alpha hydroxy acid that is derived organically from sugar cane and made synthetically. It has a small molecular structure and assists in skin exfoliation and disinfecting.

GLYCERINE

A humectant that offers smoothness to products.
Grape Seed Oil – fatty acid oil that is used to help retain skin moisture and offers antioxidant protection.

GLYCINE

An amino acid.

GRAPEFRUIT SEED OIL

oil that has disinfecting properties.

H

 

HONEY

A natural antiseptic and skin-healing agent.

HAMAMELIS VIRGINIANA

Commonly known as witch hazel, it has natural anti-inflammatory and astringent properties.

HYDROQUINONE

A melanin-suppressing agent that is available from 2% to 4% and can be combined with Tretinoin to assist in the removal of hyperpigmentation.

HEMP OIL

An essential oil that is abundant in fatty acids and assists in skin moisture.

HYDROCARBON RESIN

As a by-product of the petro

I

 

ISOPROPANOL

Commonly known as rubbing alcohol, is an effective cleaning and disinfecting alcohol in 70% to 99% concentrations.

J - L
J

 

JOJOBA OIL

A wax that is composed of fatty acids that best mimics human sebum and aids in healing and repair.

K

 

KOJIC ACID

A by-product in rice fermentation, it assists in the removal of skin discolorations.

L

 

LACTIC ACID

An alpha hydroxy acid that is naturally derived from milk and is also synthetically made. Its large molecular structure allows the acid to sit on the skin surface and help smooth mottled or uneven skin tones.

LECITHIN

An emulsifier in skin care products that prevents oil and water separation.

LEMON & LIME OILS

– Citrus oils that have antiseptic and mild exfoliation properties.

LINOLEIC ACID

A natural fatty acid that helps retain skin moisture. It can be found in pumpkin seed oil, grape seed oil, safflower oil and coconut oil to name a few.

M - O
M

 

MALVA SYLVESTRIS (MALLOW) EXTRACT

A natural emollient.

MENTHA PIPERITA (PEPPERMINT) EXTRACT

When applied topically it helps soothe muscles and has antibacterial properties.

MELISSA OFFICINALIS LEAF (BALM) EXTRACT

Has antibacterial properties.

MEADOW FOAM OIL

Rich in fatty acids and is used as a lubricant.

MELANIN

Pigment that is found in skin and hair. It is the skin’s natural defense against ultraviolet damage.

N

 

NATURAL

In skin care products, naturally derived ingredients are grown and processed into useable forms. Many of these ingredients can by synthetically manufactured to offer a consistent form. Synthetically derived ingredients are more beneficial in product use as they are not susceptible to fluxuating environmental conditions.

O

 

OLEIC ACID

A natural fatty acid that helps retain skin moisture. It can be found in grape seed oil and pumpkin oil.

OXYGENATING

In skin care, this term refers to the ability of a product or treatment to supply the cells with increased oxygen that may not be received from the blood supply.

OCTISALATE

A common sunscreen ingredient that absorbs ultraviolet light.

OCTINOXATE

A common sunscreen that absorbs UVB rays.

P - R
P

 

PALMITIC ACID

A natural fatty acid that is also a form of Palmitate that helps maintain skin moisture. It is found in pumpkin seed oil and palm oil in addition to meats and cheese.

PARSOL

The registered name of avobenzone, a common sunscreen ingredient.

PUMPKIN SEED OIL

Abundant in vitamins and fatty acids, these fatty acids assist in reducing inflammation and protecting the skin while vitamins offer antioxidant protection.

PARABEN

A preservative that has antibacterial and antifungal properties.

POLYMER

A grouping of two or more molecular substances.

PANTHENOL

A humectant, emollient and moisturizer.

POTASSIUM SORBATE

A food-grade preservative.

PRIMULA VERIS (PRIMROSE) EXTRACT

Used to aid in skin lightening.

PARAFFIN

A form of wax that is used as an emollient in skin care products. In hair removal waxes, it is combined with a microcrystalline wax to maintain heat and consistency

R

 

RETINOL

A fat-soluble form vitamin A that can also be modified into Tretinoin or isotretoin. In skin care it is used in anti-aging products to promote cellular turnover and stimulate collagen. In acne products both orally and topically to dry sebum.

ROSIN

Processed pine resin.

RESIN

Naturally derived from tree sap or synthetically made (hydrocarbon resin). It is used in hair removal waxes.

RESORCINOL

A chemical compound with antiseptic properties. It is commonly used in Jessner Peel Solutions to eliminate the need for acid neutralization.

RETINOIC ACID

Vitamin A, retinol, Tretinoin, isotretoin

RETINYL PALMITATE

An ester form of vitamin A that separates into retinol/retinoic acid once it’s penetrated into the skin.

S - U

S

 

SALICYLIC ACID

A beta hydroxy acid that is oil soluble and benefits oily or acneic skin types by aiding in controlling oil production of the Pilosebaceous unit and decongesting the pores. It is available in both professional and retail products.

SHEA BUTTER

A naturally derived from shea nuts, it is rich in fatty acids making it an effective moisturizing ingredient.

SULFUR

A naturally occurring mineral that aids acneic skin by helping to destroy bacteria while assisting in oil control.

SPINACH

An edible leaf plant that is rich in multiple vitamins and thus offers antioxidant protection.

SAFFLOWER SEED OIL

– Abundant in oleic and Linoleic fatty acids, thus aiding in skin moisture.

STEARIC ACID

A waxy fatty acid that is used in many soaps to aid in hardening.

SPIN TRAP

A complex that offers intense antioxidant protection by transforming wayward oxygen molecules into a more useful form. Also called PBN, it is known for being more beneficial than natural antioxidants.

SILICONE

In skin care it is used as an emollient to give products a smooth application.

T

 

TEA TREE OIL

An essential oil that has both antiseptic and antifungal properties, and helps soothe distressed skin.

TOCOPHEROL

Also known as vitamin e and is related to tocotrienol, it is a powerful antioxidant.

TITANIUM DIOXIDE

Used in skin care products to help brighten/whiten creams and is an effective ultraviolet absorbing agent for sunscreens. It is also used in hair removal waxes to give a creamy appearance while protecting the surface layer of skin from damage.

TRIETHANOLAMINE

– Used in skin care products to aid in balancing pH levels. Also called TEA.

TRIGLYCERIDE

One of the general terms for fatty acids. Examples include, palmitic acid, oleic acid and linoleic acid.

U

 

ULTRAVIOLET A (UVA) RAYS

Sometimes referred to as “aging rays,” these rays from the sun penetrate deeper into the skin than ultraviolet B rays and cause photosensitivity reactions.

ULTRAVIOLET B (UVB) RAYS

Also known as “burning rays,” these rays from the sun are the primary rays associated with skin damage and cancer from the sun.

URIC ACID

Also known as urea, it is a necessary component of many internal systems, it is commonly used in skin care to promote rehydration and offer antiseptic properties in acid and urea form. It is a by-product of human and animal waste, but is synthetically manufactured for commercial use. Natural urea is used in fertilizers.

V - Z
V

 

VITAMINS

Compounds that are classified by their function in the body. There are many forms of vitamins that are used in skin care products to perform specific functions and offer antioxidant protection.

VULGARIS (ACNE)

The most common form of acne that is characterized by skin lesions (papules, pustules, open and closed comodones), excess sebum and can result in skin scarring or pitting. Many factors attribute to this form of acne, family history, bacterial infection or medications to name a few. Mild forms of acne can be treated with benzoyl peroxide, salicylic acid, topical antibacterial agents and alpha hydroxy acids. Moderate to sever cases that may involve inflammation may require strict home care with the above ingredients in addition to oral antibiotics and/or topical or oral isotretoin or Tretinoin.

W

 

WITCH HAZEL

it has natural anti-inflammatory and astringent properties. Can also be listed as Hamamelis Virginiana.

X

 

XANTHAN GUM

An emulsifier in skin care products that prevents the product from separating and improves viscosity.

Y

 

YARROW

Used for its astringent properties and helps reduce inflammation.

Z

 

ZINC OXIDE

An ingredient that is used in sunscreen and mineral makeup that absorbs both UVA and UVB rays. It also prevents the growth of bacteria, viruses and fungi.